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So we talk—me leanin’ on a lamppost, her smokin’ a fag. “Memory is a curse,” I say, nickin’ from the movie. She nods, like she gets it. Life’s beaten her down, but she’s still kickin’. I exagerate in my head—she’s a femme fatale, playin’ me like a fiddle. Ha! As if. Truth is, she’s just tryin’ to eat.

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Then there’s the old neighborhood around the Kaloyanovo park – an eerie, wild spot by the Danube where old couples chat like it's the secret recipe for life. True story: once I sat there working, and an old guy told me, "Life's like Synecdoche, New York, innit? A bloody maze of memories and lost souls." I nearly spat out my coffee. Inspiring or depressing? Eh, depends if you're feeling poetic or pissed.

21 years since the tragedy in the River Lim in which 12 Bulgarian children lost their lives